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canning and preserving

Strawberry Jam in Juneuary

photo by Mr. Erickson from the CAA Flickr pool

“Want to can something before I leave on vacation?” Kim asked.

“Sure, what’s available for canning? Anything?” I replied.

This was in the first couple of weeks of June and it was still cold and and rainy here in Seattle. The past few years, June in Seattle had been so cold that folks had taken to calling it “Juneuary.” This year, folks were calling it “Junetober.” Our group usually likes to can things that we get from a farmer’s market but early in June, the pickings were slim.

“Asparagus?” I asked. I had not pickled asparagus and was intersted in trying it.

“No, I’m kind of hankering to do a jam,” Kim replied.

We chatted for awhile about where we could find good, fairly local, maybe organic strawberries. My neighborhood farmer’s market was the next day and there were rumors that strawberries would finally make an appearance. We agreed to chat the next day after I checked for strawberries. As it turned out, strawberries were there! In fact, many booths had strawberries, but they were all somewhat unripe-looking. I decided to go ahead and get some. I decided to try berries from a new-to-me farm, Hayton Farms from Mt. Vernon. They are an organic berry farm and had just started growing ‘transitional to organic” strawberries.

The variety of strawberry offered by Hayton Farms is the Albion strawberry. Here in Seattle, we have many strawberry connoisseurs. I have observed many heated conversations between strawberry lovers who insist that X or Y variety is The Best. Personally, I just like strawberries that are nicely sweet and juicy. Many varieties can be said to have those two characteristics when ripe, so I’m usually happy with what I get. That said, the Albion has a great reputation and, as it turns out, it does not disappoint. I brought the strawberries home and tasted a few. The were tasty but extremely tart. Not quite ripe. This meant that they would have much more pectin than fully ripe strawberries (underripe fruit has the most pectin), which would make them gel faster but, they would require more sugar to taste appropriately sweet for jam. The farmer’s market was on a Wednesday. I put the berries on my kitchen counter, hoping they would ripen some more before canning day. Luckily for us by Friday the berries had ripened to perfect-for-jam sweetness.

We met at Kim’s house on the beach (really, what is better than canning at a beach house?). We have canned together so many times that we comfortable with each other and there is a nice rhythm to our canning time. We chose a new-to-us recipe from the Goddess of Bakedom, Sarabeth Levine–the owner of Sarabeth’s Kitchen in New York City and the author of Sarabeth’s Bakery. Sarabeth is not only a baker, she is a canner and makes and sells jams at her restaurant.

Since we only had a few pints of strawberries, we decided to halve the recipe. But, we kept the same amount of lemon juice called for in the original recipe. As it turned out, this made a dynamite jam! Sweet enough, but not too sweet, with a lovely tartness that adds brightness to the flavor. We were able to get 5 half pints out of our half flat of strawberries.

Kim left on vacation soon after we made our jam, so I’m guessing she hasn’t opened her jars yet. I haven’t either, but I am dying to. Somehow, it feels like I should wait a few months at least, until strawberries are out of season, don’t you think? What? No? Hm. Maybe we will have strawberry jam on our toast tomorrow morning…

CAA Founding Member Jeanne Sauvage has been canning for twenty years, even though she can’t believe she is of an age to be able to say things like that. She blogs at Art of Gluten-Free Baking and her first book, Gluten-Free Holiday Baking, is due out from Chronicle Books in Fall 2012.

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Pickling with Mom

I hadn’t canned since 1986, according to records. (My mom, my pickling partner and methodical note-taker, jotted down the last date).  Though that was nearly a quarter-century ago, the memories of pickling rush clearly forward in my mind. First we’d drive to the local fruit market to pick out dill fronds taller than my 9-year-old frame, collect bags of warty cucumbers, and tack on a few Walla Walla sweets onions.

Once home, it was on to prepping the fixin’s: sterilizing the jars in the dishwasher, slicing the onions, scrubbing clean the finger-sized cucumbers.  Next up: creating an assembly line of garlic and onions, spices, cucumbers, and brine. Finally it was time for my favorite part–the actual packing of the pickles.  I’d reach my hand into the bottom of the quart-sized jar to place a slab of onion as a base.  Then sprinkle in the spices, fold in the dill, and tightly pack the cucumbers (bending a few ever so gently to nudge them under the rim of the jar).  And finally (carefully!) ladling in the hot brine.  Mom usually did this step while I watched the liquid seep and settle into empty spaces, buoying the peppercorns to the top.  We’d seal up the whole mess with a lid (warmed in a bubbling pan of water to activate the rubber) and wait for the tell-tale “ping!” to indicate the seal had set.

My mom made these pickles as an annual tradition for nearly two decades.  I joined the mix only a few times, once I stood at least tall enough to reach the countertop to help assemble.  In 1986, we even used cucumbers from our own garden that year–though our bounty was noticeably smaller than years prior; only a few quarts rather than a few dozen as in years past.  1986 was also the summer after my dad passed away.  I don’t remember a lot else about those first years of just mom and me, though I can imagine my mom was trying to stay busy to keep her mind occupied and off of our loss.

By starting the pickling process in early spring–planting the cucumbers–then tending to the little guys all through summer, we stayed focused.   And, at the end, reaped an edible reward.   It also was likely an exercise in frugality.  Back then,  pickling cucumbers only cost 17 cents per pound; one finished  jar cost approximately one fifty-cent piece.  Time, as it is wan to do, lapsed.  I got more involved in summer swimteam and school.  There wasn’t the time to grow our crops; and, unless we didn’t document it, we didn’t even get to the market to buy the pickling ingredients and make a batch.  Life was too full.

Last summer, with a touch of nostalgia in my heart and newfound time due to reduced hours at work, the notion of making pickles re-entered my brain.  My mom was excited.  So much so that she went to the market to get the ingredients without me.  Supply and demand aren’t what they used to be in regard to pickle cost.  Despite a growing interest in urban farming and homestead crafts, we paid a pretty penny for our pickling gear:  In 2010 for us, a finished quart jar of pickles cost about $3.50.  And so we stood, side by side (now the same height), assembling our production line: spices, vegetables, brine, and packed our pickles.
 
One of my favorite spots for pickle supplies in the northend or eastside of Seattle is Bothell’s Yakima Fruit Market .   Our recipe didn’t call for this step (rather, we just simmered the  lids in water to activate their rubber seal), but for safety jars should be boiled in hot water for 20-some minutes.  For variety, you can safely alter the seasonings in a recipe.  Our pickling spice contain a mélange of peppers, mustard seed, and coriander.  Next time I might throw in some red pepper flakes for a kick. 

CAA Contributor Amy Duchene is a Seattle-based food and lifestyle writer and the author of Amy Dishes. She has contributed to Three Imaginary Girls, Seattle Bride Magazine, and The Rocket. She loves pickles so much that she uses “Pickle” as a term of endearment for her cat. Follower her on Twitter @amydishes.

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CAA Photo of the Week: a Strawberry Lemon Marmalade set by Mr. Erickson

Fixings
What we have pictured above: the beginning of a beautiful canning project.

This week, we’re featuring Mr. Erickson’s image from his Strawberry Lemon Marmalade Project. You can view his entire set of his canning process on Flickr. Mr. Erickson, we’re looking forward to more of your work as the Summer progresses. Thank you for contributing to the CAA Flickr Pool!

If you’d like to participate, please join our community’s Flickr pool and submit your photos.

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Water Bath Canning Cheat Sheet

Photo by melystu from CAA Flickr pool

Even if you’re just dipping your toe into home food preservation, you probably know there are several ways–freezing, drying and fermenting, to name a few–to “put up” food at its peak so you can enjoy after the season has passed. In this space, we talk mostly about preserving food in jars, either through the water bath or pressure canner method.

Maybe you’ve heard of mise en place, a French culinary term. Roughly translated, it means “put in place” and more broadly refers to getting organized in the kitchen with all necessary ingredients and tools for a particular dish. In canning, it is especially important to pull together your mise en place to ensure delicious and safe results.

To that end, we’ve put together a cheat sheet for the basics of water bath canning that bear repeating even for the most experienced among us.

Water Bath Canning Basics: Tools and Equipment

Jars:   They come in all sizes. Before you buy, decide on a recipe, its yield and which size jar makes sense. Jars can be reused if free of chips and cracks.  Lids cannot be reused.  Do not use jars that have the bail and wire lid assembly (not safe for canning).

There are two parts of the lid assembly: the lids and the rings.

Lids:  Should be clean to ensure a seal. One-time use only for processing. Can be re-used for dry and refrigerated storage but not for canning.

Rings:  The metal ring is an important part of processing, as it holds the lid in place as it seals. We recommend removing the ring when you store jars in a cool, dark place, about 24 hours after processing. Rings can be reused if free of rust and dents.

Jar grabber aka Canning Tongs

Ladle:  Helps with precision as you transfer cooked food from saucepan to individual jars.

Lid lifter:  Magnetic wand-like contraption that places lids directly on top of jars after they’ve been filled. Great for nervous beginners.

Wide-mouth funnel:  Highly recommended. Minimizes waste, mess.  Non-metal is best (metal can possibly chip the glass of the jars)

A big ole pot or kettle with a lid:  Need not be part of a canning kit, but pot must be at least one inch taller than your jars when immersed in water. [Editor's note: the pot should be big enough that the water it contains covers the jars by at least 1 inch once the jars are submerged.  And, you want to make sure there is enough room for there to be space above the water so the water doesn't spill all over the stovetop when you submerge the jars].

Rack: Highly recommended. This holds the jars in place while processing.

Air bubbler:  Optional but a good tool to have on hand. You need not buy one and can use a non-wood chopstick or small rubber spatula instead.

Kitchen towels:  Need at least 1 lining counter area where you’ll place hot, processed jars for their “ping”ing and rest time. You’ll need a 2nd clean towel to clean tops of jars after they’ve been filled and before you put the lids on.

Things to do before you cook anything, regardless of what you’re canning and its pH/acidity level:

[Editor's note: if you live at high altitude, you will need to be aware of how it may change the canning process.  See this canning guide put out by the National Center for Home Food Preservation for details on how to adjust times for high altitude canning.]

1. Carefully read the recipe, more than once, to become intimate with yield, which ultimately affects number of jars you need and will process.

2. Bring canning water to a boil, cover and keep hot.

3. Sterilize the jars–either in boiling pot or in the dishwasher. Jars must be HOT all the time. Remember this mantra: HOT JARS, HOT STUFF INSIDE.

4. For lids: Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Add lids, turn off heat, cover. Keep lids in hot water until ready to use. Lids need to be hot. DO NOT BOIL LIDS.  This time in the hot water (not boiling) activates the sealing compound of the lids.

5. Rings: Wash in hot, soapy water before using.

6. All ingredients need to be cleaned, prepped and ready to go before you begin canning. Canning is not cooking; IT IS PROCESSING.

7. Follow the canning recipe you choose. Processing times wildly vary, depending on its acidity/pH level. This also means: Do not improvise, particularly while you’re learning. Canning is a science, not an art, with food safety as the top priority.

8. Have questions on specifics?  Check a reliable and up to date book (like a recent edition of the Ball Blue Book) or the website for The National Center for Home Food Preservation.  The “Search” function at the botton of their home page allows to you search for specific information.  We at CAA use it all the time!

You may also want to see our Canning FAQs page with more information.

Have fun! Canning is a hoot and a half, and you won’t believe how delicious the results are.

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CAA Photo of the Week: Teaching Others by Rachel at Coconut and Lime

taught my intern how to can today!
This week’s photo of the week is from a different angle — we are featuring an image from Rachel at Coconut and Lime, taken while teaching her intern to make pickled asparagus. We love it when seasoned canners share their canning wisdom with others!

Thanks, Rachel, for your contributions to our Flickr pool.

If you’re interested in learning the recipe used in the image above, Rachel shares one for Hot Pepper Pickled Asparagus on her blog, Coconut & Lime.

If you’d like to participate, please join our community’s Flickr pool and submit your photos.

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CAA Photo of the Week: Violet Jelly by peacefulbean

violet jelly
Our photo of the week is from another new contributor, peacefulbean. From her image, she shares the recipe she used to make it from the blog, Prospect: The Pantry. It’s a novel and creative recipe!

Thanks for sharing your pictures and for directing us to the recipe, peacefulbean!

If you’d like to participate, please join our community’s Flickr pool and submit your photos.

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CAA Photo of the Week: Monkey Butter by Brook Hurst Stephens

Monkey Butter on toast
This week’s photo of the week is a treat — Monkey Butter by Brook Hurst Stephens. Brook shares her recipe for Monkey Butter (Banana Jam) on her blog, Learn to Preserve. What a great resource!

Thank you for contributing and sharing your knowledge with us!

If you’d like to participate, please join our community’s Flickr pool and submit your photos.

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Memories from Last Summer: Grey Gardens of Canning

In honor of our dear departed friend and CAA founding member, Kim Ricketts, we would like to re-post an essay she wrote for this site last year. It reflects her her verve for life, as well as her sense of humor and fun. We miss her desperately and are so glad to have her spirit remain as part of the site.

Grey Gardens of Canning: Or, How I Covered My House With Canned Items


Photo by grrlscout224/Flickr

I came to canning late in life, spurred on by friends who seemed to be making pickles, jams and other yummy things every time I stopped into their kitchens. With my vegetable garden and a summer hobby of berry picking each weekend, I certainly had plenty of beautiful things to can. But, like most people, I was a little shy of tackling something that involved a big deep pan and tools that have an uncomfortable resemblance to forceps. Add to that the rather uninspiring and fear-inducing “warnings” on all of the FDA websites about the horrors if canning goes wrong. You can see why I thought I’d leave it to others to do.

Yet once I started thinking about it, I seemed to see full, colorful glowing jars everywhere: in the windows of cafes, on bakery shelves, in the pantries of friends, and decided it was time to learn. After a few group classes and demos I felt ready, and with 30 lbs of strawberries staring at me, I dove in! A few weeks ago, I spent both days making jam: one with pectin and one without, one batch with balsamic vinegar and black pepper, one with lemon zest only. Then I moved on to making strawberry vinegar and finally pickled strawberries. The jars piled up and the obsession was planted–the next weekend I tackled raspberry jam, raspberry syrup and raspberry-chipotle barbecue sauce. The pantry had to be rearranged to accommodate and anyone who visits my house is not allowed to leave without a jar in hand; but yet I keep plotting my next canning session.

This weekend: blueberry picking and all the deep blue jars I can fill. Then apricots before my canning world expands into pickles and relishes and then on to tomatoes and sauces.

If at times my kitchen resembles what my eye-rolling daughter calls “the Grey Gardens of Canning” well, so be it: the ritual of putting seasonal food by is one that comforts me and will feed my family and friends all year.

Raspberry Chipotle Barbecue Sauce, from The Berry Bible

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CAA: Photo of the Week: Achievement by wabisabi2015

achievement
This week, we have a photo from a new contributor, wabisabi2015, of apple pie filling. Those spiced apples look delicious — and reminded me to raid my pantry to enjoy what I put up last Fall!

Thank you for contributing to our community!

If you’d like to participate, please join our community’s Flickr pool and submit your photos.

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CAA Photo of the Week by Melissa-Ann

55.365
Our featured photo for this week is by Melissa-Ann of her batch of strawberry, balsamic vinegar, and black pepper jam. Does that sound like an amazing idea for the strawberries appearing in the markets? If you’d like to follow her recipe, she blogs about it here.

Thank you for sharing and inspiring, Melissa!

If you’d like to participate, please join our community’s Flickr pool and submit your photos!

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